Atwells Avenue
Providence, Rhode Island;/br>
After a long, harsh New England winter, I’m feeling the need for escape. With travel budgets modest, our annual summer visit to the in-laws in Rome is an unlikely dream. Wistful for Mediterranean UV overload, serious pizza and the artistic legacy of Western civilization, I’m not entirely out of options — even here in Rhode Island, our nation’s smallest state.
Wearing my New England pallor under oversized sunglasses, I hop in
my jalopy for a journey across the highway. A mere 10 minutes later, I’m
stirring espresso with a little spoon at Costantino’s Venda Ravioli, which
holds up its ample end at DePasquale Plaza, a cobblestoned public square
crowned by an enormous fountain. The line at “Venda” snakes around cases
of fresh pasta. Pure, unadulterated consumption is on the mind of these
shoppers, but I’m tempering my share with a little gallery hopping.
Refreshed after my caffé, I’m greeted streetside not with the high whine of Italy’s darting motorini (mopeds), but with a roaring motorcade of the Rhode Island Hell’s Angels as they cruise impressively up Atwells Avenue. Welcome to Federal Hill, Providence’s “Little Italy.”
Painting a colorful, Americanized picture of Italy in miniature, DePasquale Plaza is at the heart of Federal Hill, framed by the eclectic offerings of Atwells Avenue. Personified by an influx of Italian immigrants who developed the neighborhood from the late 19th through the first half of the 20th century, today’s Federal Hill retains a hearty culture of welcome and celebration of the finer things in life: food, drink, community and art. Here, five independent galleries form a loose collective known as Art on the Hill, boasting a special sales-tax-free status bestowed by the state. Falling within a few blocks of one another, “The Hill” makes for a leisurely gallery crawl destination with plenty of pit stops along the way. Andiamo!
My first stop, gallery Z at 259 Atwells Ave., is Art on the Hill’s “oldest” member, having opened in 2001. Their private collection features
fine art by Armenian, European and American artists from the early 20th